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Open letter
to L'Oréal

Are your hair relaxers putting Black women's health at risk?

Sign the open letter

In 2021, Oxford University published damning research that found a link between long-term use of hair relaxers containing lye and a 30% increased risk of breast cancer for Black women. L'Oréal is one of the biggest manufacturers of lye-based hair relaxers, marketed specifically at Black women.

In August 2021, Level Up and more than 5,000 petition signers asked L'Oréal to remove cancerous chemicals from these products. To date, they have still not responded.

Further studies have since linked frequent, long-term use of hair relaxers to more than double the risk of developing uterine cancer for Black women. Thousands of lawsuits have been filed against L'Oréal over the last decade — from scalp burns and permanent hair loss, to fibroids and uterine cancer.

30% increased breast cancer risk from long-term lye-based relaxer use (Oxford, 2021)
the risk of uterine cancer from frequent, long-term use
95% of Black British women don't trust beauty brands selling lye-based relaxers (Level Up, 2022)
more spending on hair care by Black women than any other group
The Open Letter

To: Nicolas Hieronimus, CEO of L'Oréal Group and Jean Paul Agon, Chairman of L'Oréal Group

Black women should be able to trust that the products we use won't hurt us, but Level Up's 2022 survey found that 95% of Black British women don't trust beauty brands that sell lye-based relaxers. This should come as no surprise since L'Oréal's hair relaxers continue to be sold — including those intended for children — labelled as "no-lye" whilst listing sodium hydroxide (lye) in the ingredients. How can we make informed decisions about products without transparency from manufacturers?

Now is the time for L'Oréal to lead the way in the beauty industry by taking responsibility for the harms caused by your products. We know that Black women's money matters to you, so we're calling on L'Oréal to demonstrate that Black women matter too.

Our three demands

Take action now to ensure:

01

A safe choice

Make the products safe to use or take them off the shelves. Black women use hair relaxers to avoid discrimination at work and in schools, because they find their hair easier to manage, or simply because they want to. You have a duty of care. If you are not able to provide safe products, they should be removed. No one should risk losing their life, their fertility or have their quality of life negatively impacted from using hair products.

02

A transparent choice

Make the nature of the ingredients and possible harms clear on the product label. The correlation with cancer does not come from misuse — it's a risk consumers are exposed to from using the products as intended. If products remain on shelves, they should clearly state that "chemical hair straighteners have been linked to an increased risk of cancer and fibroids." Easy-to-read labelling. You shouldn't have to be a chemist to make a transparent choice.

03

An informed choice

Invest in independent research about the long-term impact of these ingredients on Black women. Level Up requested safety sheets on 14th March 2022 for just two of your hair relaxers. Once again, we have yet to receive a direct reply from L'Oréal. Help customers make an informed choice.

The price of beauty should never be our health.

We know you have a commitment to being "number one in the world" regarding ethics — but the harm caused to Black women by frequent and long-term use of chemical straighteners doesn't align with that. Black women already spend up to nine times more than any other group on hair care. We shouldn't be paying with our health too.

Add your name

Over 5,000 people have already signed. Add your voice to the open letter demanding L'Oréal make hair relaxers safe — or remove them.

Recent signers

  • Aisha K.London
  • Beverley T.Birmingham
  • Marcia W.Manchester
  • Priya S.Bristol
  • Dawn B.Leeds
  • Zoe A.Glasgow

+ 5,000 others across the UK

Your details are stored securely. We will never share your personal data with third parties.

This letter is signed by

Signatories

Ikamara Larasi, Seyi Falodun-Liburd, Ruvimbo Kuuzabuwe Level Up team
Dawn Butler MP
Mandu Reid Leader, UK Women's Equality Party
Prof. Marai Larasi
Dr Akima Thomas OBE
Andrea Simon Director, End Violence Against Women Coalition
Deniz Uğur Deputy Director, End Violence Against Women Coalition
Apsana Begum MP
Baroness Lola Young
Anber Raz Co-Chair Board, Imkaan
Farzana Khan Executive Co-Director, Healing Justice Ldn
Marcia Willis-Stewart KC (Hon)
Sabrina Qureshi Founding Coordinator, Million Women Rise Movement
Kafayat Okanlawon Founder, House of Lavender
Azieb-Hannah Pool Artistic Director
Reni Eddo-Lodge
Seyi Akiwowo, Chloe Pierre, Sophie Williams, Nova Reid, Derek Bardowell Authors
Lolly Adefope Actor
Nyome Nicholas-Williams / CurvyNyome Model
Tobi Kyeremateng TV & Film Producer
Maxine Peake
Rhiane Fatinikun
Black Equity Organisation, Reproductive Justice Initiative, Curlture UK, The Leanne Pero Foundation / Black Women Rising, Natural Hair & Loc Bar London Organisations

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Sources

References

  1. Hair product use and breast cancer incidence in the Black Women's Health Study — Carcinogenesis, Oxford Academic
  2. #NoMoreLyes: Take toxic hair relaxers off the shelves — Level Up
  3. Majority of Black British women suffer side effects from hair relaxers such as burnt scalp, study finds — The Independent
  4. Use of Straighteners and Other Hair Products and Incident Uterine Cancer — JNCI: Journal of the National Cancer Institute, Oxford Academic
  5. US woman files lawsuit against L'Oréal, claiming chemical hair straightening products are linked to her cancer — CNN
  6. Watch The David Rubenstein Show: L'Oreal CEO Jean-Paul Agon — Bloomberg
  7. Black Consumers Spend Nine Times More In Hair & Beauty: Report
  8. Black Impact: Consumer Categories Where African Americans Move Markets — Nielsen
  9. The beauty industry is still failing black women — The Guardian
  10. Spending Insights — Treasure Tress: The Untapped Opportunity in UK Afro Haircare Market
  11. This is why black women unfairly spend so much money on their hair — Glamour Magazine
Community voices

Hair stories

Black women across the UK have shared what using hair relaxers has meant for their lives and health.

"I've been relaxing my hair since I was a child. It was never a choice — it was survival in a world that told me my natural hair wasn't professional."

DJ Mystikle Blue UK

"I developed fibroids in my 30s. No doctor ever asked me about my hair products. I had to connect those dots myself, years later."

Emma UK

"The burns on my scalp were so bad I had to take time off work. The salon said it was normal. It was not normal."

Anonymous

"I want my daughter to grow up knowing her hair is beautiful exactly as it grows. But I also want her to be safe if she ever chooses to chemically treat it."

Anonymous
Read all hair stories →